Fashion vs. Style
Since I’ve been reading style blogs I’ve noticed a big distinction made between ‘style’ and ‘fashion’. The former being desirable, the latter being something best avoided. I read quotes like “Style is effortless and timeless” and other thoughts that lump ‘fashion’ into trend driven materialism. A few thoughts on the matter. (I apologize if this has been covered by someone else prior, send me a link, would love to hear more thoughts on this)
One, I haven’t seen people so focused on semantics since law school. Sure, ‘style’ can be used to describe how someone is dressed. “That guy is stylish.” for example. And ‘fashion’ has become sort of a shorthand to describe runway shows and editorials. But in the end, both are focused on the same things: clothes and how they are worn. Can a fashion runway show not be stylish? I suppose. But I don’t think that necessarily draws an impassable barrier between the two words. Is a stylish runway show by definition not fashion? Michael Bastian, Thom Browne, and Junya Watanabe are fashiony as all get out. They do runway shows, are fawned over by editors and the public, and to be honest, all make pieces that could be seen as a bit much for everyday wear. But that doesn’t make them not stylish right?
Also, the whole focus on fashion as fleeting and style as timeless is a bit much no? I mean, cropped trousers although very stylish, isn’t the most timeless look on the block. (I’m sure you can show me photos from the Life Archives of guys with short trousers. But let’s avoid the whole fossil evidence debate for right now.) And even if you could show me a classic, timeless style, I’ll show you the fashion designer that pioneered it. Will you admit that the slimmed down, almost shrunken aesthetic that is seen as ‘stylish’ in some parts was due in large part to a designer that loves theatrical runway shows and puts moon boots on his models?
And don’t front like we’ve all known who Brunello Cucinelli is our whole lives. For some of us, it may be more a function of age than anything else. But this explosion of Italian tailoring all over the internet recently can’t be seen as existing above the clouds of trend or fashion. It is trendy. It is. As much as I hate to admit it, a lot (if not everything) on blogs and the media in general is in one shape or another, trendy. Or at least trend driven. Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
There are good results from trends. Chambray’s resurgence is a great thing. It’s a fabric that should be in everybody’s closets. It’s breathable, durable, and malleable. It looks good rugged as well as refined. While we’re on the whole ‘Americana’ tip, if this ‘trend’ brought a reemergence of domestic manufacturing, small business owners who have strong ties to their customers, and a small, but strong (and very nerdy) sense of community, I’m all for trends.
I can’t think of a more fashion-y thing to say than calling the ‘death’ of one look (Americana) and the emergence of another.
Perhaps all this line drawing comes from a bit of insecurity. Like we’re all afraid to admit that we really like clothes. Doesn’t make much sense to me, but I can see the defensive stances people take. Maybe it’s because it’s generally thought of as a pursuit for women? But I don’t hear girls who are into sports insist on calling them “athletics”. So what’s our excuse?
Maybe it comes not from insecurity but from a sense of superiority. Which, in my mind is worse. If you don’t make clothing, but simply comment on it, I think you need to slow your role when it comes to criticism. Sure, Rick Owens is a little too ninja tech for me. But I won’t say that his looks are ‘fashiony’ and another designer’s are ‘stylish’ simply because one fits my personal aesthetic more. Real talk, I could show my friends Junya jawnz all day and they’d look at me the same as if I showed them drop crotch pants. They’re not having either. (interesting side note, their consensus on pants tucked into boots: “Everybody knows you let a little jean tuck into your Timbs. But just Timbs.”)
Also, STYLE IS NOT EFFORTLESS. Anyone who says that is lying. It’s like the kid who says they never study then rock out straight A’s. I was that kid. I was studying my nerdy ass off. Sure, in the end, reading comes as second nature to me. But in the beginning, those Thomas the Tank Engine books were hard as fuck to read. Same thing with style. Look how much effort these guys put into making sure the fit is right. Look at Mr. Wongoli and his wonderful Brog. How many fittings does he go to when he gets a made to measure or bespoke shirt? How many tailors have we all gone through to find the one that can make that thrift store jacket look like a Borrelli? If you put effort into buying and creating your wardrobe, certainly wearing the clothes is easy. But getting them into your closet wasn’t. And don’t front that you didn’t bite on some looks that today would get your annihilated on Superfuture or Styleforum. Finding your own personal style sweet spot, like getting through puberty, is tough and full of setbacks and potholes. But in the end, you realize the journey made you what you are.
I guess in the end, all I’m asking is “Why so serious?”
My point is that dressing yourself should be equal parts of the spectrum that these two words have somehow come to describe. Your clothes should fit. They should be somewhat functional. You should like them. But they should be fun. There should be whimsy in getting dressed. Sure you could get dressed soberly and always be ‘occasion appropriate’ and that be the end of things. But I think in the end you’re missing out. We all have to wear clothes. We don’t have a choice. It’s something you do everyday. Consciously or unconsciously. The cool thing about focusing so much on clothes is that it lets you inject a little beauty into the banal.